Large pores? Here's how to get smoother and more even skin in 7 days
Large pores are one of the most common skin concerns, but there's a fundamental misconception that holds people back: pores cannot be shrunk, opened, or closed. They are permanent anatomical structures. What you can actually influence is how visible they are. With the right ingredients and a consistent routine, pore visibility can be significantly reduced in 4 to 8 weeks.
- Pores cannot be anatomically shrunk, but their visibility can be significantly reduced with the right routine.
- BHA (salicylic acid) cleans pores from the inside and dissolves sebum plugs.
- Niacinamide reduces sebum production and improves pore visibility in 4-12 weeks.
- Daily sunscreen prevents collagen degradation which makes pores looser and more visible.
- Weekly clay mask further removes dirt and sebum deep within large pores.
Why do pores look large, and can they truly be shrunk?
A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2016) showed that pore visibility is primarily controlled by sebum production, skin thickness, and elasticity, not by the actual diameter of the large pores. Pores are permanent openings to hair follicles and sebaceous glands. Their anatomical size is genetic and does not change with external treatment.
What actually changes is how visible they are. Three factors control this:
- Sebum and sebum plugs: Oily plugs in the pore stretch it out and make it visible. Increased sebum production leads to more large pores.
- Dead skin cells: Accumulation of stratum corneum around pores makes them more prominent and appears to enlarge them.
- UV damage and age: Sun damage breaks down collagen and elastin in the skin around large pores. As the supportive network weakens, large pores look looser and larger. Daily SPF is the most important prevention.
The myth of opening and closing pores with hot and cold water is a good example of how simple biology is misunderstood. Steam baths soften sebum and make it easier to clean pores, but do not open them. Pores have no musculature. Cold compresses cause temporary vasoconstriction but do not affect pore structure at all.
How does BHA work against large pores?
Salicylic acid is fat-soluble, which is the key property that makes BHA unique against pores. According to dermatological research (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2018), salicylic acid can penetrate sebum-filled pores and dissolve plugs from within, which neither water nor water-soluble acids can achieve. It is the most effective tool against large pores for oily and combination skin.
COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid contains 4 percent betaine salicylate, a milder ester form of salicylic acid. It is effective enough for daily use without irritating most skin types. Betaine salicylate has a naturally lower pH than salicylic acid and is absorbed more slowly, reducing the risk of dryness and irritation.
Apply BHA to clean, dry skin after cleansing. Wait 15 to 20 minutes before the next step. Start with every other day if your skin is sensitive and gradually increase to daily use.
Read more about BHA acid and how to use it correctly
What does niacinamide do for pore visibility?
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the most well-studied skincare ingredients for pores. A clinical study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020) showed that daily application of 4 percent niacinamide for 8 weeks reduced pore visibility with a statistically significant effect compared to placebo. The ingredient inhibits sebaceous gland activity and reduces the actual amount of sebum produced.
Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum combines niacinamide with tranexamic acid. Tranexamic acid works against uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation around pores, further reducing the visual impression of large pores. 10 percent niacinamide is an effective dose without the side effects sometimes associated with higher concentrations.
Niacinamide is compatible with almost all other ingredients and can be used morning and evening. It is one of the most tolerant active ingredients and is suitable for sensitive, oily, and combination skin.
Read more about niacinamide and how to dose it correctly
Does cleansing play a role in pores?
Yes, cleansing is fundamental. Dr.Jart+ Pore Remedy Renewing Foam Cleanser is formulated with salicylic acid and pore-cleansing ingredients to prepare the skin for active ingredients. A cleanser that dissolves sebum and dirt without disrupting the skin barrier sets the conditions for the rest of the routine.
Avoid cleansers with strong sulfates if you have combination or oily skin with large pores. Harsh cleansing can stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce more sebum as compensation, worsening pore visibility in the long term. Mild, pH-balanced cleansing is the standard.
Clay mask once a week: deep cleansing of pores
Medicube Zero Pore Blackhead Mud Mask combines kaolin and bentonite, two clay-based minerals that absorb excess sebum deep within large pores. Kaolin absorbs sebum without drying out the skin, while bentonite acts like a magnet for dirt and sebum plugs.
Apply a thin layer, leave on for 10 to 15 minutes, and rinse with lukewarm water. Use once a week as a supplement to your daily BHA routine. Do not increase frequency as overuse will dry out the skin and can trigger increased sebum production.
Why SPF is crucial against large pores
UV radiation is one of the biggest external factors behind large pores in the long term. Sun damage breaks down collagen and elastin, the proteins that keep the skin firm and support pore shape. Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics SPF50+ PA++++ is a light, non-comedogenic sunscreen that does not clog pores and provides consistent UV protection without a greasy finish.
Without daily sunscreen, the effects of BHA and niacinamide are counteracted by new oxidative damage. SPF is not optional in a pore routine. It is the final step that protects the results.
Why sunscreen is the most important step in your skincare routine
Your 7-day plan for smoother pores
The plan below is designed to provide visible improvement in one week. BHA cleans pores from within, niacinamide begins to reduce sebum production, and the clay mask provides a deep weekly clean. Note that the full effect of niacinamide is seen after 4 to 12 weeks. The routine works best as a starting point for a long-term strategy.
| Day | Morning | Evening | Expected effect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Dr.Jart+ Pore Remedy Foam Cleanser, Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF50+ | Dr.Jart+ Pore Remedy Foam Cleanser, COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid (step 1 of introduction) | Skin feels cleaner. No strong reaction expected on day 1. |
| Day 2 | Cleanser, Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum, SPF50+ | Cleanser, rest BHA (let skin get used to it) | Niacinamide begins to absorb. Skin may look brighter. |
| Day 3 | Cleanser, Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum, SPF50+ | Cleanser, COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid, moisturizer | BHA begins to dissolve sebum plugs. Pores may temporarily look more visible as plugs are cleared. |
| Day 4 | Cleanser, niacinamide serum, SPF50+ | Cleanser, Medicube Zero Pore Blackhead Mud Mask (10-15 min), moisturizer | Clay mask provides deep cleansing. Skin feels smoother after removal. |
| Day 5 | Cleanser, niacinamide serum, SPF50+ | Cleanser, COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid, moisturizer | Pores begin to look more even. Skin surface smoother to the touch. |
| Day 6 | Cleanser, niacinamide serum, SPF50+ | Cleanser, rest active ingredients, rich moisturizer | Recovery day. Barrier strengthens and skin can absorb more effect from the routine. |
| Day 7 | Cleanser, niacinamide serum, SPF50+ | Cleanser, COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid, niacinamide serum, moisturizer | Visible difference in pore size appearance. Skin looks more even and matte. |
Recommended products for large pores
- COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid 100ml: betaine salicylate 4%, fat-soluble BHA that cleans pores from within. The starting product in this routine.
- Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 30ml: reduces sebum production and improves pore visibility. TXA evens skin tone around pores.
- Medicube Zero Pore Blackhead Mud Mask 100g: kaolin and bentonite absorb sebum deeply. Weekly deep cleansing.
- Dr.Jart+ Pore Remedy Renewing Foam Cleanser 150ml: mild cleanser with pore-cleansing formula that prepares skin for active ingredients.
- Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics SPF50+ PA++++ 50ml: light, non-comedogenic sunscreen that prevents UV-induced collagen degradation.
What doesn't work against large pores?
Ice water and cold compresses do not permanently affect pore structure. They cause temporary vasoconstriction that disappears within minutes. Mechanical scrubs with gritty exfoliants can irritate the skin and actually increase sebum production in the long term. Primers cosmetically cover pores but provide no treatment effect.
Pore strips pull out visible plugs from the nose but do not treat the root cause and can irritate and damage the skin around pores with frequent use. BHA provides deeper and more lasting cleansing without the mechanical stress.
FAQ about large pores
Can large pores be permanently removed?
No. The basic size of pores is genetic and permanent. What you can influence is how visible they are. With BHA acid and niacinamide in a consistent routine, visibility can be significantly reduced in 4 to 12 weeks. Results last as long as you continue the routine and use daily sunscreen.
Does steaming open pores?
No. Steam baths soften sebum and make it easier to clean pores, but do not open them. Pores are not muscles and have no capacity to actively open or close. BHA is more effective than steam treatment for dissolving sebum plugs and deep cleansing pores.
How quickly are the effects of BHA on pores noticeable?
Skin feels cleaner and smoother after just 3 to 5 days of consistent use. Visible reduction in the appearance of pores usually appears after 4 to 6 weeks. The full effect of niacinamide on sebum production takes 8 to 12 weeks.
Can combination skin use BHA daily?
Yes, but start with every other day for the first 1 to 2 weeks. Betaine salicylate (4%) is a milder form that is tolerated by most skin types. If skin feels dry or irritated, reduce frequency and ensure moisturizer is applied after BHA.
Does sunscreen worsen large pores?
Not if you choose the right formulation. Opt for non-comedogenic sunscreens labeled "oil-free" or with a light, water-based consistency, such as Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun. Thick, greasy sun creams can clog pores. Sunscreen is still necessary to prevent UV-induced pore enlargement in the long term.
Does diet play a role in large pores?
Partially. A high glycemic index diet can increase insulin levels which in turn stimulate sebum production. Dairy products have been linked in some studies to increased acne and sebum production. It is not the primary treatment but can supplement a good skincare routine.
Can all skin types use a clay mask for pores?
Oily and combination skin respond best to clay masks. Dry and sensitive skin should limit use to once every 10 to 14 days and use a rich moisturizer immediately afterwards. Clay masks strongly absorb sebum and can dry out dry skin if used too frequently.
